Cape Cod: Chapter 5 ( The Wellfleet Oystermen)

Having walked about eight miles since we struck the beach, and passed the boundary between Wellfleet and
Truro, a stone post in the sand,for even this sand comes under the jurisdiction of one town or another,we turned
inland over barren hills and valleys, whither the sea, for some reason, did not follow us, and, tracing up a Hollow,
discovered two or three sober−looking houses within half a mile, uncommonly near the eastern coast. Their
garrets were apparently so full of chambers, that their roofs could hardly lie down straight, and we did not doubt
that there was room for us there. Houses near the sea are generally low and broad. These were a story and a half
high; but if you merely counted the windows in their gable−ends, you would think that there were many stories
more, or, at any rate, that the half−story was the only one thought worthy of being illustrated. The great number of
windows in the ends of the houses, and their irregularity in size and position, here and elsewhere on the Cape,
struck us agreeably,as if each of the various occupants who had their cunabula behind had punched a hole where
his necessities required it, and, according to his size and stature, without regard to outside effect. There were
windows for the grown folks, and windows for the children,three or four apiece; as a certain man had a large
hole cut in his barn−door for the cat, and another smaller one for the kitten. Sometimes they were so low under
the eaves that I thought they must have perforated the plate beam for another apartment, and I noticed some which
were triangular, to fit that part more exactly. The ends of the houses had thus as many muzzles as a revolver, and,
if the inhabitants have the same habit of staring out the windows that some of our neighbors have, a traveller must
stand a small chance with them.
Generally, the old−fashioned and unpainted houses on the Cape looked more comfortable, as well as picturesque,
than the modern and more pretending ones, which were less in harmony with the scenery, and less firmly planted.
These houses were on the shores of a chain of ponds, seven in number, the source of a small stream called Herring
River, which empties into the Bay. There are many Herring Rivers on the Cape; they will, perhaps, be more
numerous than herrings soon. We knocked at the door of the first house, but its inhabitants were all gone away. In
the mean while, we saw the occupants of the next one looking out the window at us, and before we reached it an
old woman came out and fastened the door of her bulkhead, and went in again. Nevertheless, we did not hesitate
to knock at her door, when a grizzly−looking man appeared, whom we took to be sixty or seventy years old. He
asked us, at first, suspiciously, where we were from, and what our business was; to which we returned plain
answers.
"How far is Concord from Boston?" he inquired.
"Twenty miles by railroad."
"Twenty miles by railroad," he repeated.
"Didn't you ever hear of Concord of Revolutionary fame?"
"Didn't I ever hear of Concord? Why, I heard the guns fire at the battle of Bunker Hill. I am almost ninety; I am
eighty−eight year old. I was fourteen year old at the time of Concord Fight,and where were you then?"
We were obliged to confess that we were not in the fight.
"Well, walk in, we'll leave it to the women," said he.
So we walked in, surprised, and sat down, an old woman taking our hats and bundles, and the old man continued,
drawing up to the large, old−fashioned fireplace,
"I am a poor good−for−nothing crittur, as Isaiah says; I am all broken down this year. I am under petticoat
government here."
The family consisted of the old man, his wife, and his daughter, who appeared nearly as old as her mother, a fool,
her son (a brutish−looking, middle−aged man, with a prominent lower face, who was standing by the hearth when
we entered, but immediately went out), and a little boy of ten.
While my companion talked with the women, I talked with the old man. They said that he was old and foolish, but
he was evidently too knowing for them.
"These women," said he to me, "are both of them poor good−for− nothing critturs. This one is my wife. I married
her sixty−four years ago. She is eighty−four years old, and as deaf as an adder, and the other is not much better."
He thought well of the Bible, or at least he spoke well, and did not think ill, of it, for that would not have been
prudent for a man of his age. He said that he had read it attentively for many years, and he had much of it at his
tongue's end. He seemed deeply impressed with a sense of his own nothingness, and would repeatedly exclaim,
"I am a nothing. What I gather from my Bible is just this: that man is a poor good−for−nothing crittur, and
everything is just as God sees fit and disposes."
"May I ask your name?" I said.
"Yes," he answered, "I am not ashamed to tell my name. My name is . My great−grandfather came over from
England and settled here."
He was an old Wellfleet oysterman, who had acquired a competency in that business, and had sons still engaged
in it.
Nearly all the oyster shops and stands in Massachusetts, I am told, are supplied and kept by natives of Wellfleet,
and a part of this town is still called Billingsgate from the oysters having been formerly plenty there; but the
native oysters are said to have died in 1770. Various causes are assigned for this, such as a ground frost, the
carcasses of black−fish, left to rot in the harbor, and the like, but the most common account of the matter is,and I
find that a similar superstition with regard to the disappearance of fishes exists almost everywhere,that when
Wellfleet began to quarrel with the neighboring towns about the right to gather them, yellow specks appeared in
them, and Providence caused them to disappear. A few years ago sixty thousand bushels were annually brought
from the South and planted in the harbor of Wellfleet till they obtained "the proper relish of Billingsgate"; but
now they are imported commonly full−grown, and laid down near their markets, at Boston and elsewhere, where
the water, being a mixture of salt and fresh, suits them better. The business was said to be still good and
improving.
The old man said that the oysters were liable to freeze in the winter, if planted too high; but if it were not "so cold
as to strain their eyes" they were not injured. The inhabitants of New Brunswick have noticed that "ice will not
form over an oyster−bed, unless the cold is very intense indeed, and when the bays are frozen over the
oyster−beds are easily discovered by the water above them remaining unfrozen, or as the French residents say,
degele." Our host said that they kept them in cellars all winter.
"Without anything to eat or drink?" I asked.
"Without anything to eat or drink," he answered.
"Can the oysters move?"
"Just as much as my shoe."
But when I caught him saying that they "bedded themselves down in the sand, flat side up, round side down," I
told him that my shoe could not do that, without the aid of my foot in it; at which he said that they merely settled
down as they grew; if put down in a square they would be found so; but the clam could move quite fast. I have
since been told by oystermen of Long Island, where the oyster is still indigenous and abundant, that they are found in large masses attached to the parent in their midst, and are so taken up with their tongs; in which case,
they say, the age of the young proves that there could have been no motion for five or six years at least. And
Buckland in his Curiosities of Natural History (page 50) says: "An oyster who has once taken up his position and
fixed himself when quite young, can never make a change. Oysters, nevertheless, that have not fixed themselves,
but remain loose at the bottom of the sea, have the power of locomotion; they open their shells to their fullest
extent, and then suddenly contracting them, the expulsion of the water forwards gives a motion backwards. A
fisherman at Guernsey told me that he had frequently seen oysters moving in this way."
Some still entertain the question "whether the oyster was indigenous in Massachusetts Bay," and whether
Wellfleet harbor was a "natural habitat" of this fish; but, to say nothing of the testimony of old oystermen, which,
I think, is quite conclusive, though the native oyster may now be extinct there, I saw that their shells, opened by
the Indians, were strewn all over the Cape. Indeed, the Cape was at first thickly settled by Indians on account of
the abundance of these and other fish. We saw many traces of their occupancy after this, in Truro, near Great
Hollow, and at High−Head, near East Harbor River,oysters, clams, cockles, and other shells, mingled with ashes
and the bones of deer and other quadrupeds. I picked up half a dozen arrow−heads, and in an hour or two could
have filled my pockets with them. The Indians lived about the edges of the swamps, then probably in some
instances ponds, for shelter and water. Moreover, Champlain in the edition of his "Voyages" printed in 1613, says
that in the year 1606 he and Poitrincourt explored a harbor (Barnstable Harbor?) in the southerly part of what is
now called Massachusetts Bay, in latitude 42;dg, about five leagues south, one point west of Cap Blanc (Cape
Cod), and there they found many good oysters, and they named it "lePort aux Huistres" (Oyster Harbor). In one
edition of his map (1632), the "R. aux Escailles" is drawn emptying into the same part of the bay, and on the map
"Novi Belgii," in Ogilby's America (1670), the words "Port aux Huistres" are placed against the same place. Also
William Wood, who left New England in 1633, speaks, in his "New England's Prospect," published in 1634, of "a
great oyster−bank" in Charles River, and of another in the Mistick, each of which obstructed the navigation of its
river. "The oysters," says he, "be great ones in form of a shoe−horn; some be a foot long; these breed on certain
banks that are bare every spring tide. This fish without the shell is so big, that it must admit of a division before
you can well get it into your mouth." Oysters are still found there. (Also, see Thomas Morton's New English
Canaan, page 90.)
Our host told us that the sea−clam, or hen, was not easily obtained; it was raked up, but never on the Atlantic side,
only cast ashore there in small quantities in storms. The fisherman sometimes wades in water several feet deep,
and thrusts a pointed stick into the sand before him. When this enters between the valves of a clam, he closes
them on it, and is drawn out. It has been known to catch and hold coot and teal which were preying on it. I
chanced to be on the bank of the Acushnet at New Bedford one day since this, watching some ducks, when a man
informed me that, having let out his young ducks to seek their food amid the samphire (Salicornia) and other
weeds along the river−side at low tide that morning, at length he noticed that one remained stationary, amid the
weeds, something preventing it from following the others, and going to it he found its foot tightly shut in a
quahog's shell. He took up both together, carried them to his home, and his wife opening the shell with a knife
released the duck and cooked the quahog. The old man said that the great clams were good to eat, but that they
always took out a certain part which was poisonous, before they cooked them. "People said it would kill a cat." I
did not tell him that I had eaten a large one entire that afternoon, but began to think that I was tougher than a cat.
He stated that pedlers came round there, and sometimes tried to sell the women folks a skimmer, but he told them
that their women had got a better skimmer than they could make, in the shell of their clams; it was shaped just
right for this purpose.They call them "skim−alls" in some places. He also said that the sun−squawl was
poisonous to handle, and when the sailors came across it, they did not meddle with it, but heaved it out of their
way. I told him that I had handled it that afternoon, and had felt no ill effects as yet. But he said it made the hands
itch, especially if they had previously been scratched, or if I put it into my bosom, I should find out what it was.
He informed us that no ice ever formed on the back side of the Cape, or not more than once in a century, and but
little snow lay there, it being either absorbed or blown or washed away. Sometimes in winter, when the tide was
down, the beach was frozen, and afforded a hard road up the back side for some thirty miles, as smooth as a floor.
One winter when he was a boy, he and his father "took right out onto the back side before daylight, and walked to
Provincetown and back to dinner."
When I asked what they did with all that barren−looking land, where I saw so few cultivated fields,"Nothing,"
he said.
"Then why fence your fields?"
"To keep the sand from blowing and covering up the whole."
"The yellow sand," said he, "has some life in it, but the white little or none."
When, in answer to his questions, I told him that I was a surveyor, he said that they who surveyed his farm were
accustomed, where the ground was uneven, to loop up each chain as high as their elbows; that was the allowance
they made, and he wished to know if I could tell him why they did not come out according to his deed, or twice
alike. He seemed to have more respect for surveyors of the old school, which I did not wonder at. "King George
the Third," said he, "laid out a road four rods wide and straight the whole length of the Cape," but where it was
now he could not tell.
This story of the surveyors reminded me of a Long−Islander, who once, when I had made ready to jump from the
bow of his boat to the shore, and he thought that I underrated the distance and would fall short,though I found
afterward that he judged of the elasticity of my joints by his own,told me that when he came to a brook which he
wanted to get over, he held up one leg, and then, if his foot appeared to cover any part of the opposite bank, he
knew that he could jump it. "Why," I told him, "to say nothing of the Mississippi, and other small watery streams,
I could blot out a star with my foot, but I would not engage to jump that distance," and asked how he knew when
he had got his leg at the right elevation. But he regarded his legs as no less accurate than a pair of screw dividers
or an ordinary quadrant, and appeared to have a painful recollection of every degree and minute in the arc which
they described; and he would have had me believe that there was a kind of hitch in his hip−joint which answered
the purpose. I suggested that he should connect his two ankles by a string of the proper length, which should be
the chord of an arc, measuring his jumping ability on horizontal surfaces,assuming one leg to be a perpendicular
to the plane of the horizon, which, however, may have been too bold an assumption in this case. Nevertheless, this
was a kind of geometry in the legs which it interested me to hear of.
Our host took pleasure in telling us the names of the ponds, most of which we could see from his windows, and
making us repeat them after him, to see if we had got them right. They were Gull Pond, the largest and a very
handsome one, clear and deep, and more than a mile in circumference, Newcomb's, Swett's, Slough,
Horse−Leech, Round, and Herring Ponds, all connected at high water, if I do not mistake. The coast−surveyors
had come to him for their names, and he told them of one which they had not detected. He said that they were not
so high as formerly. There was an earthquake about four years before he was born, which cracked the pans of the
ponds, which were of iron, and caused them to settle. I did not remember to have read of this. Innumerable gulls
used to resort to them; but the large gulls were now very scarce, for, as he said, the English robbed their nests far
in the north, where they breed. He remembered well when gulls were taken in the gull−house, and when small
birds were killed by means of a frying−pan and fire at night. His father once lost a valuable horse from this cause.
A party from Wellfleet having lighted their fire for this purpose, one dark night, on Billingsgate Island, twenty
horses which were pastured there, and this colt among them, became frightened by it, and endeavoring in the dark
to cross the passage which separated them from the neighboring beach, and which was then fordable at low tide,
were all swept out to sea and drowned. I observed that many horses were still turned out to pasture all summer on
the islands and beaches in Wellfleet, Eastham, and Orleans, as a kind of common. He also described the killing of
what he called "wild hens" here, after they had gone to roost in the woods, when he was a boy. Perhaps they were
"Prairie hens" (pinnated grouse).
He liked the Beach−pea (Lathyrus maritimus), cooked green, as well as the cultivated. He had seen it growing
very abundantly in Newfoundland, where also the inhabitants ate them, but he had never been able to obtain any
ripe for seed. We read, under the head of Chatham, that "in 1555, during a time of great scarcity, the people about
Orford, in Sussex (England) were preserved from perishing by eating the seeds of this plant, which grew there in
great abundance on the sea−coast. Cows, horses, sheep, and goats eat it." But the writer who quoted this could not
learn that they had ever been used in Barnstable County.
He had been a voyager, then? O, he had been about the world in his day. He once considered himself a pilot for
all our coast; but now they had changed the names so, he might be bothered.
He gave us to taste what he called the Summer Sweeting, a pleasant apple which he raised, and frequently grafted
from, but had never seen growing elsewhere, except once,three trees on Newfoundland, or at the Bay of Chaleur,
I forget which, as he was sailing by. He was sure that he could tell the tree at a distance.
At length the fool, whom my companion called the wizard, came in, muttering between his teeth, "Damn
book−pedlers,all the time talking about books. Better do something. Damn 'em. I'll shoot 'em. Got a doctor down
here. Damn him, I'll get a gun and shoot him"; never once holding up his head. Whereat the old man stood up and
said in a loud voice, as if he was accustomed to command, and this was not the first time he had been obliged to
exert his authority there: "John, go sit down, mind your business,we've heard you talk before,precious little
you'll do,your bark is worse than your bite." But, without minding, John muttered the same gibberish over again,
and then sat down at the table which the old folks had left. He ate all there was on it, and then turned to the
apples, which his aged mother was paring, that she might give her guests some apple−sauce for breakfast, but she
drew them away and sent him off.
When I approached this house the next summer, over the desolate hills between it and the shore, which are worthy
to have been the birthplace of Ossian, I saw the wizard in the midst of a cornfield on the hillside, but, as usual, he
loomed so strangely, that I mistook him for a scarecrow.
This was the merriest old man that we had ever seen, and one of the best preserved. His style of conversation was
coarse and plain enough to have suited Rabelais. He would have made a good Panurge. Or rather he was a sober
Silenus, and we were the boys Chromis and Mnasilus, who listened to his story.
"Not by Haemonian hills the Thracian bard,
Nor awful Phoebus was on Pindus heard
With deeper silence or with more regard."
There was a strange mingling of past and present in his conversation, for he had lived under King George, and
might have remembered when Napoleon and the moderns generally were born. He said that one day, when the
troubles between the Colonies and the mother country first broke out, as he, a boy of fourteen, was pitching hay
out of a cart, one Doane, an old Tory, who was talking with his father, a good Whig, said to him, "Why, Uncle
Bill, you might as well undertake to pitch that pond into the ocean with a pitchfork, as for the Colonies to
undertake to gain their independence." He remembered well General Washington, and how he rode his horse
along the streets of Boston, and he stood up to show us how he looked.
"He was a r−a−ther large and portly−looking man, a manly and resolute−looking officer, with a pretty good leg as
he sat on his horse.""There, I'll tell you, this was the way with Washington." Then he jumped up again, and
bowed gracefully to right and left, making show as if he were waving his hat. Said he, "That was Washington."
He told us many anecdotes of the Revolution, and was much pleased when we told him that we had read the same
in history, and that his account agreed with the written.
"O," he said, "I know, I know! I was a young fellow of sixteen, with my ears wide open; and a fellow of that age,
you know, is pretty wide awake, and likes to know everything that's going on. O, I know!"
He told us the story of the wreck of the Franklin, which took place there the previous spring: how a boy came to
his house early in the morning to know whose boat that was by the shore, for there was a vessel in distress, and
he, being an old man, first ate his breakfast, and then walked over to the top of the hill by the shore, and sat down
there, having found a comfortable seat, to see the ship wrecked. She was on the bar, only a quarter of a mile from
him, and still nearer to the men on the beach, who had got a boat ready, but could render no assistance on account
of the breakers, for there was a pretty high sea running. There were the passengers all crowded together in the
forward part of the ship, and some were getting out of the cabin windows and were drawn on deck by the others.
"I saw the captain get out his boat," said he; "he had one little one; and then they jumped into it one after another,
down as straight as an arrow. I counted them. There were nine. One was a woman, and she jumped as straight as
any of them. Then they shoved off. The sea took them back, one wave went over them, and when they came up
there were six still clinging to the boat; I counted them. The next wave turned the boat bottom upward, and
emptied them all out. None of them ever came ashore alive. There were the rest of them all crowded together on
the forecastle, the other parts of the ship being under water. They had seen all that happened to the boat. At length
a heavy sea separated the forecastle from the rest of the wreck, and set it inside of the worst breaker, and the boat
was able to reach them, and it saved all that were left, but one woman."
He also told us of the steamer Cambria's getting aground on his shore a few months before we were there, and of
her English passengers who roamed over his grounds, and who, he said, thought the prospect from the high hill by
the shore "the most delightsome they had ever seen," and also of the pranks which the ladies played with his
scoop−net in the ponds. He spoke of these travellers with their purses full of guineas, just as our provincial fathers
used to speak of British bloods in the time of King George the Third.
Quid loquar? Why repeat what he told us?
"Aut Scyllam Nisi, quam fama secuta est
Candida succinctam latrantibus inguina monstris,
Dulichias vex;afasse rates, et gurgite in alto,
Ah timidos nautas canibus lacerasse marinis?"
In the course of the evening I began to feel the potency of the clam which I had eaten, and I was obliged to
confess to our host that I was no tougher than the cat he told of; but he answered, that he was a plain−spoken man,
and he could tell me that it was all imagination. At any rate, it proved an emetic in my case, and I was made quite
sick by it for a short time, while he laughed at my expense. I was pleased to read afterward, in Mourt's Relation of
the landing of the Pilgrims in Provincetown Harbor, these words: "We found great muscles (the old editor says
that they were undoubtedly sea−clams) and very fat and full of sea−pearl; but we could not eat them, for they
made us all sick that did eat, as well sailors as passengers, . . . but they were soon well again." It brought me
nearer to the Pilgrims to be thus reminded by a similar experience that I was so like them. Moreover, it was a
valuable confirmation of their story, and I am prepared now to believe every word of Mourt's Relation. I was also
pleased to find that man and the clam lay still at the same angle to one another. But I did not notice sea−pearl.
Like Cleopatra, I must have swallowed it. I have since dug these clams on a flat in the Bay and observed them.
They could squirt full ten feet before the wind, as appeared by the marks of the drops on the sand.
"Now I am going to ask you a question," said the old man,"and I don't know as you can tell me; but you are a
learned man, and I never had any learning, only what I got by natur."It was in vain that we reminded him that he
could quote Josephus to our confusion."I've thought, if I ever met a learned man I should like to ask him this
question. Can you tell me how Axy is spelt, and what it means? Axy," says he; "there's a girl over here is named
Axy. Now what is it? What does it mean? Is it Scripture? I've read my Bible twenty−five years over and over, and
I never came across it."
"Did you read it twenty−five years for this object?" I asked.
"Well, how is it spelt? Wife, how is it spelt?"
She said: "It is in the Bible; I've seen it."
"Well, how do you spell it?"
"I don't know. A c h, ach, s e h, seh,Achseh."
"Does that spell Axy? Well, do you know what it means?" asked he, turning to me.
"No," I replied, "I never heard the sound before."
"There was a schoolmaster down here once, and they asked him what it meant, and he said it had no more
meaning than a bean− pole."
I told him that I held the same opinion with the schoolmaster. I had been a schoolmaster myself, and had had
strange names to deal with. I also heard of such names as Zoheth, Beriah, Amaziah, Bethuel, and Shearjashub,
hereabouts.
At length the little boy, who had a seat quite in the chimney−corner, took off his stockings and shoes, warmed his
feet, and having had his sore leg freshly salved, went off to bed; then the fool made bare his knotty−looking feet
and legs, and followed him; and finally the old man exposed his calves also to our gaze. We had never had the
good fortune to see an old man's legs before, and were surprised to find them fair and plump as an infant's, and we
thought that he took a pride in exhibiting them. He then proceeded to make preparations for retiring, discoursing
meanwhile with Panurgic plainness of speech on the ills to which old humanity is subject. We were a rare haul for
him. He could commonly get none but ministers to talk to, though sometimes ten of them at once, and he was glad
to meet some of the laity at leisure. The evening was not long enough for him. As I had been sick, the old lady
asked if I would not go to bed,it was getting late for old people; but the old man, who had not yet done his
stories, said, "You ain't particular, are you?"
"O no," said I, "I am in no hurry. I believe I have weathered the Clam cape."
"They are good," said he; "I wish I had some of them now."
"They never hurt me," said the old lady.
"But then you took out the part that killed a cat," said I.
At last we cut him short in the midst of his stories, which he promised to resume in the morning. Yet, after all, one
of the old ladies who came into our room in the night to fasten the fire− board, which rattled, as she went out took
the precaution to fasten us in. Old women are by nature more suspicious than old men. However, the winds
howled around the house, and made the fire−boards as well as the casements rattle well that night. It was probably
a windy night for any locality, but we could not distinguish the roar which was proper to the ocean from that
which was due to the wind alone.
The sounds which the ocean makes must be very significant and interesting to those who live near it. When I was
leaving the shore at this place the next summer, and had got a quarter of a mile distant, ascending a hill, I was
startled by a sudden, loud sound from the sea, as if a large steamer were letting off steam by the shore, so that I
caught my breath and felt my blood run cold for an instant, and I turned about, expecting to see one of the
Atlantic steamers thus far out of her course, but there was nothing unusual to be seen. There was a low bank at the
entrance of the Hollow, between me and the ocean, and suspecting that I might have risen into another stratum of
air in ascending the hill,which had wafted to me only the ordinary roar of the sea,I immediately descended
again, to see if I lost hearing of it; but, without regard to my ascending or descending, it died away in a minute or
two, and yet there was scarcely any wind all the while. The old man said that this was what they called the "rut," a
peculiar roar of the sea before the wind changes, which, however, he could not account for. He thought that he
could tell all about the weather from the sounds which the sea made.
Old Josselyn, who came to New England in 1638, has it among his weather−signs, that "the resounding of the sea
from the shore, and murmuring of the winds in the woods, without apparent wind, sheweth wind to follow."
Being on another part of the coast one night since this, I heard the roar of the surf a mile distant, and the
inhabitants said it was a sign that the wind would work round east, and we should have rainy weather. The ocean
was heaped up somewhere at the eastward, and this roar was occasioned by its effort to preserve its equilibrium,
the wave reaching the shore before the wind. Also the captain of a packet between this country and England told
me that he sometimes met with a wave on the Atlantic coming against the wind, perhaps in a calm sea, which
indicated that at a distance the wind was blowing from an opposite quarter, but the undulation had travelled faster
than it. Sailors tell of "tide−rips" and "ground−swells," which they suppose to have been occasioned by hurricanes
and earthquakes, and to have travelled many hundred, and sometimes even two or three thousand miles.
Before sunrise the next morning they let us out again, and I ran over to the beach to see the sun come out of the
ocean. The old woman of eighty−four winters was already out in the cold morning wind, bare−headed, tripping
about like a young girl, and driving up the cow to milk. She got the breakfast with despatch, and without noise or
bustle; and meanwhile the old man resumed his stories, standing before us, who were sitting, with his back to the
chimney, and ejecting his tobacco−juice right and left into the fire behind him, without regard to the various
dishes which were there preparing. At breakfast we had eels, buttermilk cake, cold bread, green beans, doughnuts,
and tea. The old man talked a steady stream; and when his wife told him he had better eat his breakfast, he said:
"Don't hurry me; I have lived too long to be hurried." I ate of the apple−sauce and the doughnuts, which I thought
had sustained the least detriment from the old man's shots, but my companion refused the apple−sauce, and ate of
the hot cake and green beans, which had appeared to him to occupy the safest part of the hearth. But on
comparing notes afterward, I told him that the buttermilk cake was particularly exposed, and I saw how it suffered
repeatedly, and therefore I avoided it; but he declared that, however that might be, he witnessed that the
apple−sauce was seriously injured, and had therefore declined that. After breakfast we looked at his clock, which
was out of order, and oiled it with some "hen's grease," for want of sweet oil, for he scarcely could believe that we
were not tinkers or pedlers; meanwhile he told a story about visions, which had reference to a crack in the
clock−case made by frost one night. He was curious to know to what religious sect we belonged. He said that he
had been to hear thirteen kinds of preaching in one month, when he was young, but he did not join any of
them,he stuck to his Bible. There was nothing like any of them in his Bible. While I was shaving in the next
room, I heard him ask my companion to what sect he belonged, to which he answered.
"O, I belong to the Universal Brotherhood."
"What's that?" he asked, "Sons o' Temperance?"
Finally, filling our pockets with doughnuts, which he was pleased to find that we called by the same name that he
did, and paying for our entertainment, we took our departure; but he followed us out of doors, and made us tell
him the names of the vegetables which he had raised from seeds that came out of the Franklin. They were
cabbage, broccoli, and parsley. As I had asked him the names of so many things, he tried me in turn with all the
plants which grew in his garden, both wild and cultivated. It was about half an acre, which he cultivated wholly
himself.Besides the common garden vegetables, there were Yellow−Dock, Lemon Balm, Hyssop,
Gill−go−over−the−ground, Mouse−ear, Chick−weed, Roman Wormwood, Elecampane, and other plants. As we
stood there, I saw a fish−hawk stoop to pick a fish out of his pond.
"There," said I, "he has got a fish."
"Well," said the old man, who was looking all the while, but could see nothing, "he didn't dive, he just wet his
claws."
And, sure enough, he did not this time, though it is said that they often do, but he merely stooped low enough to
pick him out with his talons; but as he bore his shining prey over the bushes, it fell to the ground, and we did not
see that he recovered it. That is not their practice.
Thus, having had another crack with the old man, he standing bareheaded under the eaves, he directed us "athwart
the fields," and we took to the beach again for another day, it being now late in the morning.
It was but a day or two after this that the safe of the Provincetown Bank was broken open and robbed by two men
from the interior, and we learned that our hospitable entertainers did at least transiently harbor the suspicion that
we were the men.